Sweetgreen and places like Lyfe Kitchen, Chipotle, Smashburger, Five Guys, Shake Shack, and Dig Inn now occupy the rapidly expanding middle ground between restaurants with tablecloths and the giant fast-food chains. But millions of diners, fuelled by concerns about their health and the state of the environment-and propelled by a general distaste for industrially produced and highly processed food-have begun to shun the ubiquitous chains that have long shaped the American culinary character. Many people wouldn’t have considered it food at all. Ten years ago, no American would have regarded a bowl of vegetable scraps dressed with lime-cilantro or spicy pesto vinaigrette as fast food. Michael Donahue, co-founder of Lyfe Kitchen, wants to convert customers “who have always thought healthy food has to taste like straw.” Photograph by Andrew B.
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